I was walking through Wenceslas Square in Prague today, (I will admit it is not my favorite place) and noticed this quiet little courtyard. I couldn’t believe it. Is it really a tea room?! Really at Wenceslas Square? At this busy place, full of tourists, noise, shops and some bizarre offers made by even more bizarre people?
So I walked in the courtyard and I found myself in a bamboo garden (OK, so only a little bamboo garden) with people sitting outside at little tables, sipping tea.
If you like to take a rest while avoiding tourist traps of Prague, check this Dobra Cajovna (A Good Tea Room) at Wenceslas Square No. 14, Prague 1 just few steps from Bata shoe store.
I couldn’t resist and took more pictures and even made a video of Kutna Hora on a Saturday two weeks ago. It was an evening when my husband Vratislav organized open-air Nabucco at Kutna Hora Art gallery courtyard. A great excuse to come to Kutna Hora in the morning and take more pictures of all hidden corners and little cafes in tiny lanes. I stopped by at the Glass Dependence of Borek Sipek. If you are into design glass, you cannot miss this shop. Look at some of Sipek’s glass at thise-shop. The store manager is a very nice man, we chatted for a while and I walked around the store and admired shapes and colors of beautiful vases and bowls and…. I discovered you can even have a cup of coffee in the back of the store.
Of course, I stopped by at the Felix Jenewein bookstore, hard to walk by without checking in. A short break in Blues Cafe with a saint statue above my head overlooking the tiny square and back to the St. Barbora Cathedral. Walking towards the cathedral looking at Saint John, Saint. Barbora, Saint Florian, Ignac of Loyola, ….. Yes, the statues may not be of the same art quality as the ones at the Prague Charles Bridge but anyway, imagine a man from Kutna Hora who created all of them over thirteen years, by himself. Impressive.
After sitting quietly inside St. Barbora cathedral admiring the private chapels and the ceiling (don’t forget to look up, pure beauty), I am ready to have a bite to eat. U Hrncire restaurant has great food and terrace. Although, I am almost ready to offer help to the waiter who clearly struggles with orders overload. I managed to get my soup and salad and continue to St. Jacob church and the breath-taking view next to the church. The Rudhardska street is a romantic medieval street with slightly morbid story about a young girl immured in one of the cellars here. A bit radical for my taste.
Walking down the Rudhardska street, I reach the Italian courtyard. I am sitting here, looking around and think about the time when this place used to be the “National Bank of the Czech Kingdom.” Kutna Hora, once city of wealth, silver and coin production. Today, a beautiful one day escape from Prague. It is time to head back to the Art Gallery to enjoy “Va pensiero” and Nabucco.
Finally, I will ask you to excuse my English and my video making skills but I love it, I can’t help myself. And here is my previous post on Kutna Hora.
You may not notice this place when exploring Kampa island and its romantic corners. When coming from Charles Bridge, head accross the park and keep on the left side. You will soon see the giant babies, an art work by famous and according to some controverrsial artist, David Cerny. You are almost there – the Kampa Museum, a former mill owned by Sova family in 15th century – thus the original name, Sova Mill or Sovovy mlyny in Czech.
The building was rescued by a Czech-American art collector, Mrs. Meda Mladek who supported Czech artists during the comunism era together with her husband, Jan V. Mladek, one of the top officers of the International Monetary Fund after WWII. Meda Mladek returned to then Czechoslovakia after 1989 and turned the mill building into a muzeum and art gallery featuring an exquisite art collection of Frantisek Kupka, a co-founder of abstract art and cubism. The gallery belongs to leading Central European art centers regularly hosting avant-gard exhibitions attracting visitors and modern art enthusiasts from all over the world.
The place is magic, romantic, offering beautiful sights of Prague. Enjoy coffee or glass of wine in the Museum cafe, definitely visit the Museum shop and do not forget to stop by at the Praying Monk statue – Mr. Harmony.
Get the feel with a Prague Travel Concierge Kampa Video.
Look for the small park in front of Old-New Synagogue, you will find a beautiful sculpture of Moises, work of a Czech symbolist and Art Nouveau sculptor, Frantisek Bilek. The bronze sculpture shows Moises on his knees, writing the name of “Adam”. The sculpture was placed in the park near the Synagogue in 1937 (although Bilek completed it in 1905). The German Nazzis removed the sculpture and melted it 1940. Fortunately, the widow of Frantisek Bilek kept the plaster model so the bronz cast of Moses was re-done and it was placed in the park again after World War II in 1946.
For a single evening, Stirin Castle Courtyard in the Czech Republic hosted Verdi’s Nabucco and soloists of the National Theater Opera Prague and Opera House in Liberec. Verdi’s third opera Nabucco owes its reputation to the famous chorus “Va pensiero”, sung in the third act by the Hebrew people, who long for their homeland after being exiled by the Babylonian king Nabucco. Watch “Va pensiero” from the 2014 Nabucco production at Jindrichuv Hradec Castle.
Kutna Hora is a great one day trip from Prague. You can get there by public bus or Prague Travel Concierge will get you to Kutna Hora by car or minivan. The centre of this medieval gem is part of the UNESCO world heritage. It is a picturesque walking city and a great place for you to wonder around and discover the beauty of this once important city of the Czech Kingdom. Kutna Hora became rich thanks to silver mining and silver coins manufacturing. No wonder – cash is king and so Kutna Hora became rich with all its noble buildings and the St. Barbara Cathedral.
You need to see the Cathedral, Italian Courtyard and the old houses in the city centre and of course an old well on one of the squares. But if you like art, go to the Art Gallery of the Central Bohemia – it is called GASK and you may notice direction signs throughout the city. If you would like to get a private tour in GASK, let us know. The gallery is in an old Jesuit College, it has been beautifully reconstructed recently. If you like design glass, do not forget to stick your head to a small shop of a Czech glass designer, Borek Sipek – a shop called Borek Sipek Glass Dependence – you will find it at Komenskeho namesti 39 (Komensky square) in Kutna Hora. By the way, Borek Sipek was a favorite designer of Vaclav Havel during his Presidency at the Prague Castle. Once you get hungry, I recommend you skip the main street tourist eateries and check the small bistros or cukrárna (sweet shop) in the narrow alleys. There is one exception – the food at the U varhanare restaurant may not be the best in the world but their view of St. Barbara, baroque statues and the valley below Kutna Hora is priceless (on your right hand, walking back from St. Barbara Cathedral to the centre). Oh, I almost forgot – do you enjoy old books? I love them! Then check an old second hand bookstore – Felix Jenewein at Barborska street in Kutna Hora. Books, old paintings and more. I always find something small or book that I have been looking for. You may be lucky and find some books in English and of course in German. I do not mention the bone church or the ossuary as it is called. It is quite unique but not for everybody, so think twice before you visit.
If you have any questions on Kutna Hora or something else, email us.
The Prague art deco, modernist and cubist arcades are interesting, vibrant, loved by locals and overlooked by tourists. Most of the arcades are close to Wenceslas Square, Vodickova and Stepanska streets. The architecture enthusiasts should not skip at least Lucerna, Rokoko and Koruna arcades. Lucerna, once built by Havel family (Vaclav Havel grandfather) is admired for Arabic bazar style decoration and Rokoko arcade is a small art deco jewel. Most of the „passages“ – as locals call them, were built at the turn of 19th and 20th century until the end of the „First Republic“ (1918 – 1938). Don’t forget to visit Cafe Lucerna – yes, it would deserve a facelift but still, you will enjoy its former glory and art deco charm, it is still there. As you will be standing in Lucerna, looking at marble and stained glass, admiring all the details and entrance to the old movie theatre, look up to the ceiling, you will spot David Černy’s statue of Saint Wenceslas sitting on an upside down horse (1999) – you can check the original statue by J.V. Myslbek at Wenceslas Square close by (1887 – 1924). Some like it some don’t, some say it is absurd, some say it is provocative and fun as all art work by David Černý in Prague. Would you like to take a tour to see the arcades?
After you visit the Hybernska street secondhand bookstore (ANTIKVARIAT) in Prague, you may want to check another bookstore just few steps from here. When you leave the bookstore, facing the trainstation, head to the left side and turn to left on the corner. You should be at the Dlazdena street. Look for Dlazdena No. 5. There is another secondhand bookstore. A bit smaller than the first one but still quite interesting. You may find some English language books but what is really nice are the old photographs and some artwork. This store is in the same place for ages. I remember walking by as a small girl wondering why would someone buy an old book. Now I know, whether you buy or not, it is always an adventure. And usually it is a bargain.
Enjoy and check back to Prague Travel Concierge, I will add more Prague secondhand bookstores soon.
Antikvariat Dlazdena No. 5, Prague 1
Opening hours Mo – Fri 9 am to 6 pm’, Sat 9 am to 1 pm
You may not notice this house as you walk by. Nestled in between two higher buildings, a baroque house in the middle of a bustling Vodickova street No. 35. You will find it just few steps from Wenceslas square. It was built by Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer approximately in 1720. The man who built such treasures as St. John Nepomuk at Prague Castle, St. Nicholas Church at the Old Town Square or the impressive Brevnov Monastery in Prague to name just a few.
When you enter the house you will find a home décor shop with a café. Nice and cozy but the real hidden gem is the baroque garden at the end of a long passage through the house. Quite unexpected place in the very center of Prague. Even some Praguers have no idea it exists. By the way, František Maria Černý, the architect who rebuilt the Emauzy Monastery after 1945 bombing of Prague lived in this house as well as Max Urban, the man who designed Barrandov Terrace Restaurant for Havel family. When leaving café, look at the house next door. It is Langhans, newly reconstructed building, home of a prestigious Prague photo atelier since 1880 (of course except 1948 – 1989 when the communists “were taking care” of the house).
If you feel like you are ready for an Italian breakfast in Prague, I will recommend stopping by at La Bottega di Finestra at Platnerska street No. 11. This is a place to enjoy coffee, scrambled eggs with Fontina cheese, Eggs Benedict or croissant (OK, it is French but with Italian coffee…?). Do not expect great views, but still a strategic location. Charles Bridge and Old Town Square are just 5 minutes of walk from here as well as the Jewish Quarter being 10 minutes of walk. So starting the day or stopping by for a quick bite to eat during the day may be a good idea. Price range $$$
Want to taste the real Czech kolache, strudel or babovka (poundcake or Gugelhupf in German)? Head to Jungmannova street No. 7 to Bakefactory. Very simple bakeshop with coffee and Czech type of pastry. The counter looks like my grandma’s kitchen. The place opens at 7.30 (I know, you may check in a bit later, it is your vacation) and if you are looking for a quick and easy Czech breakfast, this may be your place. Price range $
When you are at Jungmannova street, check the Home Kitchen, a bistro across the street from Bakefactory. Home kitchen serves breakfasts (I admit, I never had one here) and daily menu, but quite hard to get a table at lunch time. Really nice soups (I did have many soups here). Price range $.
Chlebicky, a genius Czech invention, open face sandwiches that Mr. And Mrs. Paukert, the owners of once best deli in town, invented for Czechoslovak movie stars back in the First Republic (1918 – 1939). Czechs love them, no real celebration at work or at home happens without chlebicky. There are couple of places where you can enjoy chlebicky in Prague. Do not look for fancy staff, get the real Czech thing – Liberske lahůdky at Vodičkova street No. 9or Golden Cross Deli (Zlaty kriz lahůdky) at Jungmannovo namesti (square). Heads up no tables to sit, you wait at the counter, point the chlebiceks you want and you get your package (you can eat it in the shop at the small tables – however it may be better to grab you chlebicek and enjoy it at the bench in the adjacent Frantiskanska garden. When you stand infront of the statue of Mr. Jungmann (a leading figure of the Czech National Revival in 19th century) look for the entrance to the garden on your right hand). Unfortunately, the historical Paukert Deli at Narodni trida is closed at the moment but you can at least read about the family history here. Price range $.